2012 – April : AAA visit to Salamanca, Burgos, and Cáceres
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A group of 26 AAA members set off in a coach from the Algarve with an itinerary to include Atapuerca one of the most important archaeological sites in Europe.
In Spain we followed the old Via de la Plata. We called by at the Roman camp Caparra which at the time helped protect the trade along the Via de la Plata (silver and tin). It is now noted for three grand entry arches to the former camp which still stand though in some state of disrepair but giving clear evidence of a once large and imposing Roman fort. The weather was as welcoming as ever pouring with rain throughout!
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The next morning we had a guided tour of Salamanca. This city is remarkable in that it has 2 Cathedrals joined together. Though deciding to build a new cathedral to emphasise the importance of their city, the citizens could not bear to demolish the old one and it remains in use to this day alongside the new Cathedral.
The University of Salamanca was founded in the 13th century and was renowned for it’s learning. It was here that Luis de Leon - a 16th century theologian - was arrested by the Inquisition for translating the Song of Solomon into Spanish and spent the next five years in jail. In the sandstone sculptures of the faҫade hides a minute frog which if you can spot it will assuredly bring you luck.
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The library is housed in the nearby Casa de las Conchas, a somewhat medieval fortified exterior and decorated with scallop shells on the outside, the scallops being the symbol of the Order of Santiago de Compostela and of the pilgrims of the Santiago route.
After lunch we left for Burgos where we found ourselves in a delightfully situated hotel overlooking the Burgos Cathedral. In the morning of the 3rd day we had a conducted tour of Burgos cathedral. Silver casket, stained windows, the Flycatcher clock, tower, gold altar screen, a painting attributed to Leonardo. After lunch we visited the village of San Millan de la Cogolla with its 2 monasteries Suso and Yuso.
On the morning of the 4th day we visited the Museo de la Evolucion Humana. A new museum of anthropology modern in design and in it’s treatment of displays. There was so much to absorb that it would really require several visits to do it justice.
In the afternoon on to Atapuerca, a site of such archaeological importance it has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Equipped with hard hats for protection from falling debris, we were led through a shower of rain to an almost sheer section in the hillside where scaffolding had been erected to give access to the strata above. The site was discovered during excavation for a railway cutting, but due to bankruptcy of the company the railway was fortunately not finished.
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The archaeological excavations at Atapuerca include several caves where fossils and stone tools have been found of the earliest hominids possibly dating back to 1.2 million years, the first in Europe. Early evidence of human cannibalism has been found here. Fragments of jaw and skull belonging to Homo heidelbergensis, who may have given rise to Neanderthals, have been recovered dating to about 400,000 years. Over 5,500 human bones have been located dating to at least 350,000 years. It is claimed that excavations have uncovered anatomical evidence of hominids that were fabricating tools more than one million years ago in Europe. Later we travelled by coach to a separate site with reconstructed dwellings various early techniques of flint tool making and of starting a fire using natural materials could be demonstrated. We were left with the impression that there were many aspects of early history still to be revealed through future research in the extensive field of archaeology.
On the 5th day we visited the Museo del Tratado in Tordesillo preserving the 1494 treaty between Spain (Castile and Aragon) and Portugal establishing the division of the New World with a dividing line down the Atlantic Ocean.
After lunch we traveled to Cáceres, where in the evening we had a guided tour of a floodlit palace and grand houses in an area of narrow streets of Moorish influence. |